Information and how to assemble the #013 Race Headquarters
#013 is an homage to the Scalextric K703 building which is no longer
available and very difficult to find. The structure is double skinned
for strength and has three tiers. At the back of the building there are
two finely detailed stairs to access the floors.
building is 284mm Wide x 228mm Deep x 255mm High
How to assemble the Race Headquarters
will begin by building the inner walls and then add then work our way
upwards. We leave the stairs and hand rails until last as these are the
most delicate parts. We recommend super glue as this is quick and makes a strong model.
begin locate the lower floor. This has "MAGNETIC RACING" etched on it.
Place this on the workbench with the text facing upwards. Now locate
the two inner walls. These are identical to each other. Apply some
small drops of super glue on the lower edge and push them into the
slots. Use another square part of the kit to get them perfectly
vertical. Hold each in place until the glue holds them.
we add on the front inner wall. This can be recognized as it has a
large double width door and two windows with small windows. It is
important especially with large pieces in the to do a trial fit without
glue. The parts are generally very accurate, but depending on how they
are assembled may need a little gentle sanding to make them easy to
assemble. Once you are happy, apply small drops of super glue on the
mating faces and press the part home. Make sure it is fully pressed
down into the lower piece and against the wall edges.
we add on the rear inner wall. This has a single window and a single
width door. Note the window is on the left in the image below. We have
offset the slots, so it should be impossible to assemble this
incorrectly. Once again do a dry assembly first, remove the wall, apply
glue and reassemble. As before press the part down and up against the
centre walls until it dries.
on the two end walls. Make sure the windows are positioned as shown.
They should only fit one way. Apply glue and press the corners together
until the glue dries.
now glue on the next floor to the underside. Before gluing, double
check that all the holes are free of laser cut debris. Pay particular
attention to the small square holes around the edge. If you don't do
this they may be difficult to remove once you have glued on the part.
There are etched lines on
this part which align perfectly to the edges of the other floor. When
applying glue do this around the edges inside the etched lines and also
in the centre. do not go near the slots as we do not want glue to seep
into them. Press the model together on a flat surface. If you want to
work a little slower you can switch to wood glue here and press the
model together with a weight on the top of the until the glue goes off.
This can give you extra time to slide the faces around a little to get
them aligned more accurately.Pay particular attention to the stair
landing which sticks off the rear edge. The better you get this, the
easier the stairs will be to attach later.
the model over and orientate it a shown in the image below. Glue on the
front wall. Once again use another square edged part of the kit to
ensure it is glued upright.
glue on an end wall. Note the position of the door. Apply glue and push
the part down into the floor. Hold the corner together as the glue dries
Add the second end wall in a similar manner. *IMPORTANT* This part has a narrower width lug at one end. Make sure that this is placed to the left end as shown in the image below.
Follow this with the rear wall as shown.
glue in in two doors. All the single doors in the kit are the same so
choose any two. There is etching on the doors to help as a guide to get
them correctly placed in the door aperture. Apply glue sparingly as you
do not want it to squeeze out so it shows on the door face. Double
check that the porthole window is at the top of the door!
now begin to add the outer walls. Start with the ends. Apply glue and
press it home. Note that the etched lines are on the outside of the
model and the edges are flush with the inner walls at each end.
a similar manner add on the other end wall. Once again check the
ends are flush and the etched detail is on the outside.
Now add the back outer wall. This forms a neat corner with the end walls.
on goes the front outer wall. Pay attention here to get the double door
gaps nicely even. the kit is very accurate so this should be
straightforward. The end also align to form a neat corner. If you
have the model a little poorly built, give priority to the centre door
gaps as the ends will be covered later with corner edging.
next turn our attention to the upper floor. Begin with the end walls.
These have no etched detail on them. Align the corners and check the
door gaps are neatly aligned.
Add the other end wall in a similar manner.
on goes the front wall.
Follow this with the rear wall.
the model around and make sure it is on a flat surface. Add the front
plinth. This is the one without holes. Check it fits easily before
applying glue and then press home. Make sure it lies flat on the build
surface so is square to the wall. We add the plinth before adding the
doors as this gives us a nice location for the bottom edge of the
door. It is a good idea here to place a sheet of paper on the build
surface as it is possible to glue the whole model down by accident.
With paper it is much easier to remove it without damaging your bench.
allow this to dry thoroughly before proceeding.
on the double door with the etched detail outermost. We insert the door
from below the model and locate it using the etched lines. By attaching
the plinth first we are able to push the door down and against it to
position it correctly. Apply glue sparingly as we do not want it to
seep onto the front of the doors. make sure you add glue on the lower
edge of the door as this reinforces the plinth.
add on the two door pillars. There are some similar looking parts in
the kit, but the parts you want are 7mm wide x 64.5mm tall. Glue these
either side of the door. There are no etched marks to help you, but
align the inner edges with the door aperture.Apply a little glue on the
lower edge and ensure it pushes down on the plinth. By doing this you
reinforce the plinth so it is less likely to snap off in use.
add on the top door canopy. Once more apply glue on the top of the door
pillars and along the rear edge. Ensure it is positioned horizontally
as it dries.
the model around and add on the rear plinth. Note the position of the
holes. We have sized the lugs so it should only fit on one way. Once
again place some thin paper under the model when you glue it on. This
way you can rip off the paper easily and scrape off any residue after
drying instead of gluing it to your bench! It is important here to get
everything square so take your time here. By doing this it makes it
much easier to assemble the rear stairs at a later stage. Make sure
this is thoroughly dry before proceeding as it is easy to twist the
part off the model by accident.
a single door using the plinth and the etched lines to the inside of
the wall. A little glue on the lower edge of the door further
reinforces the plinth.
now glue on the second floor roof. Note this is the last time we have
access to the inside of the second floor, so if you are detailing the
inside or adding window glass (not supplied) do it now. It is in theory possible to have this roof removable,
but this makes the model rather fragile. This can be done by not
applying glue here and also not gluing the stair sides to the lower
roof (see later). Note this part has no etched detail and the stair
landing is to the rear of the model as shown below. Once more it should
be impossible to fit this the wrong way around. As this is a large part
do a trial fit first without glue to see if it pushes home easily.
comes the upper roof. Check the part for debris, particularly in the
small square holes. Push out any scrap wood with a craft knife.As the
part has etched lines on the underside, assembly is best accomplished by
inverting the model. Place the separate part on the bench and lower the
main model onto it. Try this dry first so you know how it fits and then
apply glue inside the etched lines around the edge and in the centre.
Avoid applying glue near any of the slots. Pay particular attention to
the landing which protrudes from the rear of the building. Get this
aligned perfectly as this helps later when we assemble the stairs.
the model the correct way up and add on the upper inner wall. This is
the one with the door and it has lugs on the lower edge. Glue it in
place and ensure it is upright. use another square part in the kit as a
right angle. Let this fully dry before continuing.
We now add on the front and rear inner wall. Both parts are identical.
on the end wall. in the centre piece. There are two identical pieces in the kit. Use
either. Orientate the part with the etching on top and so it aligns
with the etched detail. Glue it in place checking that all the edges
now add on the front and rear outer walls. These are plain rectangular
pieces with no etching. They are both the same. Glue them on with the
ends flush as shown. The top edge forms a lip to take the lower window
Add on the end outer wall . this is again a rectangular un etched part.
the outer walls by adding on the other end. ensure the edges are flush
and that there is an even stepped recess either side of the door.
Add on the final door to the inside wall face. once again use the etched lines to help position it correctly.
The roof support comes next. Apply glue and push both ends fully into the slots provided.
is an end roof support and this goes on next. Position it centrally on
the cross beam and make sure the underside is flush as shown. Hold the
parts together until the glue dries.
on the wall gusset to by the side of the door. push it fully home into
the lower slot and check the rear edge forms a neat corner inside.
add on the sloping window. There are two identical panels in the kit so
use either. These glue up against the angled roof support. The lower
edge sits neatly in the lower lip. Position the ends flush as shown.
In a similar manner add on the rear window. This fits into the corner recess as shown below.
on the end window in a similar manner. We are trying to form an equal
square surface in each corner. If we get this equal it makes fitting
the corner windows much easier.
is another small window to add next to the door. This is supported by
the gusset we added earlier. Again we are looking to form that square
surface in the corner.
glue in the corner windows. There are 3 identical panels in the kit.
The lower point sits on the square surface we previously formed in the
corners. The top edges are flush with the other windows. These parts
are fragile, even when glued. It is a good idea to run a small bead of
stronger glue on the inside corners of these parts.
add on the inner roof panel. We can leave this unglued if you want
occasional access to the inside of the model. Do a trial fit first
without glue and if necessary sand the lugs or slots a little to
get it to fit nicely. Once happy apply glue and attach the part.
We have the upper roof to attach now and once again this has etched
lines underneath to help you. It sometimes helps to invert the model to
make this easier.
now add the window sills to the model. there are nine of these of
various lengths. They are the narrow sections left in the kit which are
all 4mm wide. They are glued into the recesses below each window.
are some wider (7mm) pieces that glue onto each lower corner. There are
8 in the kit. Begin with the 4 end pieces. glues these on using the
etched lines as a guide. The outer edges are flush with the corner of
the front and rear wall.
this with the remaining 4 pieces for the front and rear wall. These
overlap the previous parts to form a neat corner. Once more there are
etched lines to help you align the pieces.
We now begin construction of the rear stairs. Firstly we need to attach the stair support to the inside of the hand rail.
are 4 of these to complete. Two have an upper hand rail attached as
shown. Note the position of the chamfered corner and where it is
positioned relative to the upper hand rail. They are mirrored pairs as
shown in the last of the three images below.
add on the inner stair rails. We mentioned earlier that it is possible
to have access to the second floor interior and you can do this by not
applying glue to the bottom ends of the upper stair rails. We do not
recommend this as it makes the upper stairs rather weak, but the choice
The stair hand rails clip into a hole at the lower end and then press
up against the notch at the top. Notice that the stair support faces
outwards on both rails. Do a dry assembly first and check everything
goes together. Ensure that the rail is glued vertical. also push it
back against the sides of the floor so it sits into the corner.
on the two outer rails. This time the stair support faces inwards. Due
to the stack up of part tolerances, you may need to sand this part a
little on the vertical edge as shown The part should sit onto the floor
easily. Notice also in the second image that the leg does not go into
the hole on the floor, but sits by the side. This is true for both the
lower and upper part. Check and recheck until happy then glue in once
more making sure it is vertical. allow these pieces to fully dry before
we need to add in the stair treads. there are 32. 16 on the lower and
16 on the upper stairs. Cut these from the sprue along the marked
lines. We have provided a few extra to help you. These can be tricky to
fit, but a tip is to start at the top and work down. test each one
first as sometimes the ends need sanding so they are an easy fit. apply
glue and press each one in. Sometimes tweezers or some thin nose pliers
can help here.
We are approaching the end of the build. Add in the small hand rail spacer as shown below.
All of the hand rails look similar, but are all unique. First glue on
the rear hand rail. This has 7 panels. Once again note that the end leg
does not go into a hole, but sits next to it as shown. apply glue
sparingly on the legs, but don't forget to apply glue on the end that
meets the spacer we added previously. By doing this in the corners the
rails are much stronger.
Add the end rail. This has 5 panels
Turn the model around and add on the front rail in a similar manner.
And then the end rail. Apply glue on both vertical ends and pinch the corners together until the glue dries.
We now turn our attention to the upper floor. Add in another spacer as shown
A small single panel hand rail goes in next.
Add on the 4 panel end rail.
Followed by the 6 panel front rail.
Add the other end rail.
The last part is the small 2 panel rail as shown.
Congratulations you have completed the Race Control Tower. We hoped you
enjoyed the build. We would love to see photos of you completed builds,
particularly if you have painted them or modified them in any way.