Information on the Marshal Hut #009 and how to assemble it

The Marshal Hut is a finely detailed scale model which is double skinned for extra durability. All the outer surfaces are laser etched which enhances the realistic look of the construction. It is easy to assemble and can be completed in about 20 minutes. Of course the building can be used for many other purposes, such as a Press Office, Medical Centre etc. It is an ideal building for the first time builder as it is simple to construct and easily painted after completion.



The 1/32 model is 150mm Wide x 131mm Deep x 96mm High


How to assemble the Marshal Hut #009

The Marshal Hut #009 is a relatively simple kit to construct, but a few tricks will help you get it just right. Firstly use super glue as it dries fast and glues very well. Don't use too much, just a few drops here and there. As with all our kits, when assembling a part to the model, do a dry assembly first without glue. This way you are comfortable the part goes together easily and are not in any rush whilst using super glue. Push the parts together firmly and wait whilst the glue dries as this takes only a few seconds. This model is simple enough to be painted at the end of the build, but of course if you are more experienced, paint the parts any time as you go along.

Now to begin. Our first task is to assemble the inner walls. Get out the rear wall and the left side wall as shown in the image below. The parts can be identified as the have no etched detail on either side.  Also get out another wall part and use this as a right angled template. Using this you can check the parts are square whilst the glue dries. Notice the position of the windows in the left wall and that the lugs on the rear and left wall are pointing forwards as viewed in the image below. As with all parts do a dry assembly first before applying glue.


Now find the right wall. Once more this is a part without any etched detail. Notice the position of the door and windows and that the lugs again face forward. Glue this in place and again use another part in the kit to glue it square to the rear wall.

Now we attach the front wall. Again this is a plain un etched part. Make sure the windows are positioned as shown and the lugs point in the correct  direction. Glue  both corners.

For the moment we will assemble the building upside down. Locate the "Mid" height floor. This part is symmetrical so can be assembled either way around. Place it on the work surface and do a dry assembly. This is particularly important when assembling the larger parts with many lugs. This cleans out any debris and ensures you can assemble the part easily and quickly when gluing it. When happy apply  drops of glue along the top of each wall and then press the it home. Push down until the glue dries.

The inner walls are now complete. Allow the model to completely dry before continuing.
We are now onto the outer walls, these all have etched detail and should be positioned to the outside of each part so it is visible. Locate the right outer wall and glue it in place. The vertical edges of this part are flush with the corners of the inner walls. Also make sure it is pushed down to the mid height wall.

At the other end of the model, glue on the left outer wall in a similar manner. Once more check the vertical edges are flush and the part is pushed down.

Now add on the front outer wall The vertical edges overlap the end walls to form a neat corner. Double check that the window holes look correct and there is an even lip around each window frame.

Glue on the rear outer wall. Note it is possible to glue this upside down, but to keep things neat, try it both ways and check the alignment of the planks relative to the side walls. If you do glue it upside down, don't worry as you probably won't notice it when the building is finished.

Now turn the model up the correct way. Glue in the door as shown by applying glue to the inside of the wall at the rear .Don't use too much and apply it in the corner, that way when you squeeze the parts together you minimize the chance of glue contaminating the outside visible surface of the door. Note that the window is at the top as shown in the image and the door handle is to the left. It sounds silly, but gluing the door upside down is a common mistake which I have made myself!

The next step is to glue in the front window sill. Push it firmly home in the slot below the front windows.

In a similar manner glue in the left window sill.

Attach the window frame above this. Use the etched detail on the outer wall to get the frame aligned exactly.

Glue in the smaller frame into the top of the window as shown. You have options here as you can glue it at an angle to make it look like the window as open (See second image). A small piece of wire can also be added (Not supplied) to represent a window stay.


On the other end nearest the door glue on the window sill as shown.

Followed by the window frame.

Then as before glue in the smaller frame at the top of the window. Once more if you prefer  this can be glued in the open position.

At each end we need to glue on 2 narrow edge trim pieces. Use the etched detail on each end of the building to align it perfectly. The outer vertical edge aligns with the corner of the building as shown.

Now take the 4 wider trim pieces and glue them to the front and back walls as shown. These overlap the 4 narrower pieces to form a neat corner. Again use the etched detail on the front and back wall to help align them.

Glue on the door step. Make sure the model is on a flat build board so it lies flat to the surface.

Following this, glue on the door frame. The etched detail is once again there to guide you.

Now glue on the two inner roof ends. Note these have no etched detail on them and they are both identical to each other. They must be glued vertically, so use another square part in the kit to help you. Also note that the taller end goes to the front as shown in the image below.

add on the roof supports. again these need to be upright, so use the square corner of another part. Once again the tall end goes to the front as shown.

At the rear of the building glue on the small outer roof piece. Notice that the etched detail is on the outside and that the ends are flush.

Glue on the front outer piece. Once again the detail is outermost and the ends are flush as shown.

At each end of the building we now glue on the outer roof parts. Etched detail outermost and align the front edge as shown.

We now glue on the roofing planks. Begin at the back. We need to get this plank central and there is no guides to help. Check with a ruler that the dimension indicated in the image is equal both ends. It is sometimes handy to mark it with a pencil first. Then apply glue and then press the first plank home using the pencil mark as a guide.

Continue forward adding planks and checking they are central. It is important to make the ends flush with each other as we will be gluing on end caps shortly.

The last plank is a little tricky. You need to measure and match the two dimensions as shown. You can either mark the distance on the edge of a piece of paper and transfer it forward, or an alternative is to use the end piece as shown to guide you where to glue it.

If you haven't done so already, glue on the two end finishing caps.

There is one last part to glue on and that goes above the front windows.There are etched lines to help you here. But as a guide, the lower edge of this part is flush with the top of the window opening.

Congratulations you have completed the build.

We hoped you enjoyed its construction and will be encouraged to try another from the range. Do let us know how you use the building on your track.