Information on the Reims Gueux Pit Buildings #005e and how to assemble the End Modules

We describe here buildings modeled after the Reims Gueux pits in France. They are however similar to pits used at many circuits and we have added in optional stairs at the rear to make them suitable for any track. This type of pits (Without the pit lane) was used from early on in the 1900's and the one at Reims was still in use in 1966 for the French Grand Prix. Sports cars were still using this configuration of pits until 1969 and motorcycles continued there until 1972.

Our pit buildings are supplied in modular form, so with the purchase of additional centre sections your pits could be of any length. By purchasing just the end sections will give you a pits with 4 bays. The centre modules are sold separately, so each one you buy adds another two pit bays.

The upper hand rail is left uncut so you are free to move the rear stairs anywhere along either as a single, or multiple stair configuration. Of course if you are placing these at the back of your track, you have the option to leave them off completely. As with the original building, the leading pit end is gated, but the other end is left open for access. The walls are detailed with bricks where required. (The ends of the original building are rendered). They are a simple building, but if painted and decorated with the various racing logos above the front opening can make a centrepiece for any track.



The 1/32 model end buildings are 213mm Wide x 104mm Deep x 132mm High

The stairs if fitted project 89mm from the rear of the building.

These buildings still remain today and we would encourage you to visit them.  There is a small group of enthusiasts who spend their time renovating the buildings. You can also see the original building on Google maps.

Amis du Circuit de Gueux

Reims Gueux Marshal Hut on Google Maps



How to assemble the Pits buildings #005

Depending on which kit you have purchased you will either have a pair of end sections, some centre sections or both. We will describe building of the centre section first then proceed to the ends. We recommend quick drying super glue for our models. Just a few drops on the joining edges, press and hold them for a few seconds and the connection is done. This way the model can be built in about 1/2 hour. Of course if you are going to paint model, you can do this as you go along, however the pit interior is easy to access should you want to paint it after you have completed the build. One word of warning. If you have bought multiple kits, do not be tempted to open all the bags and tip everything out. Some parts look very similar across the kits (between centre and end modules) so unless you like a challenge resist the temptation! If you have bought both centre and end module kits, build a centre module first as this is the easiest and you will then have no difficulty progressing onto the end modules.




How to assemble the End Modules

The end pit modules are assembled in a similar way to the centre modules. Do the inside construction first and then add the outer details. There are some subtle differences between each end, namely that they are mirror images. One additional difference is that there is a gate which is present on only one end. We will start with this one first. If you are struggling, try to find the four end pieces in the kit as shown below and separate them into pairs. The gated end we will be building first so we use the two pieces on the left of this image. When we assemble these parts all the detail (Shown in green points outwards so it is visible on the finished model.


Get out a base, rear wall and a centre wall. Note there are two of each in the kit. At this stage both end sections are identical so you can use either part. The base is one of the larger pieces in the kit and has "MAGNETIC RACING" printed on it. Place this face down on the build surface. Note the rear wall has brick decoration and this unusually points to the inside as it is visible from the front when the kit is fully completed. Also note down the centre of the rear wall there are two guide lines to help you get the centre wall vertical. Do a dry assembly first to check you have the parts correctly orientated, then separate them and apply glue. By assembling all the 3 parts at once it is easier to get them perpendicular to each other, however if you prefer, assemble the centre wall to the floor using a right angle or another square part from the kit  to get it vertical, You can then attach the rear wall. Pay particular attention to get the centre wall between the two lines whilst it dries.


Now we glue on the pit front. Again there are two of these in the kit and you can use either. Note there is surface detail on this part above the front opening and this needs to face outwards. Again do a dry assembly first to see where you need to apply glue and then assemble it to the main model. Note that the lugs on the front protrude through a small amount so make sure the part is pushed fully home to touch the base and centre wall. Again use the detail on the front to ensure the tall upright of the centre wall is aligned.

We now glue in the two ends. This is where the two ends differ. Notice here the gated end goes to the right. There is etched door handle on one side, make suer this goes on the outside. On the other end there are two identical pieces in the kit, use either.

Now turn the model around and attach the roof. Note here in the image below there are extra slots at the end and these need to be positioned at the end above the gate. In addition there is a notch in one corner so there there should only be one correct way to fit this. Do a trial fit first without glue. Depending on how accurately you positioned the vertical wall you may need to ease out some material here. Don't worry too much as there is another layer to go over this later.

Now the rear upright goes on. There are two similar looking but mirrored pieced in the kit. Choose the one with the notch in the correct end as shown. Two lugs point down and clip into the roof and the brick detail is on the outside.

There is another upright to add and again the brick detail is on the inside. If the part doesn't seem to fit, check again that you have the correctly handed one in the kit. Ensure you glue this vertical. Use another part of the kit with a right angled corner to help you check the alignment.




The back outer wall goes on next. Glue this on and use the door openings to guide you. Once more check as there is a left and right handed one of these parts.

Attach the upper roof panel. The slots are at the rear of the building and there is etched detail on this part. It goes on top. Examine the image below carefully and note where the slots at the rear are positioned. You will see there is a "half slot" at the right end and a chamfer in the corner.

We now add on two gussets to support the front wall. Use the details on the roof and the two slots to get them upright. The tops protrude a little over the front edge. We will use this later to align the top piece.

Add on the end outer wall. There is no brick detail on this piece as the original building was rendered over the brick, however there is a small amount of frame detail around the gate. This goes to the outside.

Turn the model around and glue on the lower front slab. It goes on either way up as the front is exactly 4 bricks tall. Apply glue onto the protruding lugs only and press on the slab. Note there is a gap behind this panel. This is correct. Just ensure the ends are flush with the main model and it is pressed down onto the build surface.

We now glue on the top "L" shaped piece. There are two in the kit so use either. The part protrudes at the front to form a lip, but the ends are flush. Use the gussets we glued on earlier to guide the back edge.

There are two smaller capping pieces to attach at the front.  The etched brick detail is on the top.

The last part is the rear hand rail. If you are going to attach rear stairs, leave this unglued for now as you will need to remove it to cut out a section. It is also best if you leave this until you have completed all your pits buildings. This way you can get all the rails perfectly upright to each other so it looks like one continuous part.

This completes the build for the gated end of the pits. We now need to complete the opposite end. As we have one end completed this provides us with a good template with which to compare the opposite one we are about to construct. Have it handy when building the opposite end as a reference.

The other end of the pits is constructed in a similar way, but is a mirror of what you have just completed. There is one subtle difference and that is there is no gate at the left end. Proceed as before by assembling the floor, centre wall and rear wall. This time construct the assembly as you see below. The open end is to the left as shown. There are two pieces in the kit that look quite similar here, but the part you are looking for has two cutouts at the lower edge and has no etched detail.

Continue construction as before adding in the roof, rear outer wall, uprights and gussets until you come to the part where you need to add on the end wall. Look for the part below and attach it as shown. The back and lower edge are flush with the main construction.

That completes the build of the two ends. If you have followed the instructions, you should now have it all complete except for the stairs and gluing on the upper hand rails. We now need to decide what to do about the stairs.

How to assemble the Stairs

The rear stairs are entirely optional to the build. If you want your pits to go flush against a back wall, leave them off. Each pits module contains one set of stairs, but having one on each module is probably an overkill, so maybe one at each end is sufficient or one in the middle. But of course its your track, so feel free to add as many or as little as you want. When assembling the stairs it can be handy to lip the two uprights over the top of the pit building back edge, but either way you need to assemble these square.

First get out the hand rails and inner stair supports. we need to make a symmetrical pair.

Glue these two parts together using the detail etched on the hand rail to guide you, then look for an opposite hand rail. The stair support which we glue to the hand rail in the above image is not handed , so you can use either. You should now have the following pairs.

Now take two stair treads. These are attached to a sprue and are easily cut off. We provide a few extras for you. There is an etched detail on the sprue to show you where to cut. There are several methods to complete the stairs, one being to glue one side to the main pit model using a square edge against the build surface, but it is possible to assemble the stairs on their own which we recommend. First place one side on the build surface and attach two stair treads one at the top and one at the bottom. Use a right angled edge, or another piece of the kit to ensure they are glued vertically. You can use just one drop of super glue for each of these, so if you get it wrong, it is possible to carefully peel the tread back off. You can then clean it up with a knife and try again with one of the spares we provide. The kit is quite accurate though, so if you push the tread home in the corner it should be fairly close to vertical.

We now use the pits to help us glue on the second rail. By lipping the top edge on the back of the pits . Just apply two drops of glue to the stair treads and push everything together. We can use the rear of the pits and the build surface to align the stairs. If you are a little unsure here, do not use super glue, but a slower drying glue such as PVA. You can use blue tack, small pieces of masking tape to hold everything it in place and check it is all square and have plenty of time to adjust if necessary. When happy that everything is correct , walk away for half an hour or so and let the glue on the treads dry. You can then go back using super glue to attach the remaining stair treads.

The stairs will be very fragile at first, but we next glue in the other stair treads so the construction becomes much stronger. Complete as many stair sets as you want to have at the rear of the pits.

Its now time to get out all your pit buildings and lay them out as they are going to fit on your track. Decide where you want the stairs to go. It's not a good idea to mount the stairs so they obstruct the rear doors of the pits. Also position them so they are aligned with the uprights of the hand rail.

Hopefully you haven't glued in the hand rail as we suggested earlier, as we now need to mark and remove any cross pieces at the top of each stair. Mark and cut them carefully with a sharp knife before gluing the hand rails and stairs into place.


You have now completed the build. Please send us photos of how you have detailed up you models as we would like to share those images with the community.