Information and How to assemble the Two Tier Pit Module #005d

The Two tier pit building is compatible with our other #005 pit modules. As well as providing two pit bays on the lower floor, the upper tier has a two row stand which is accessed by the stairs at the rear of the building. It is recommended that this building is placed between two others, but the end is etched with brick detail, so it is possible to use this as a separate building with only minor modification.



The two tier 1/32 building is  210mm Wide x 138mm Deep x 212mm High

How to assemble the two tier pit module #005d

We recommend quick drying super glue for our models. Just a few drops on the joining edges, press and hold them for a few seconds and the connection is done. This way the model can be built in about 1/2 hour. Of course if you are going to paint model, you can do this as you go along, however the pit interior is easy to access should you want to paint it after you have completed much of the kit. You can leave off the roof and seating sub assembly which makes access to the inside easier, then final assemble the whole thing. One word of warning. If you have bought multiple kits, do not be tempted to open all the bags and tip everything out. Some parts look very similar across the kits (between centre, two tier and end modules) so unless you like a challenge resist the temptation!

The model is double skinned in most places, so we assemble the inner first then add on the outer detail. We highly recommend that you read the guide all the way through.

Now let us begin. Get out the base, rear wall and the centre wall. The base has "Magnetic Racing" etched on the underside. Place this part text down on the build surface. Note the rear wall has brick decoration and this unusually points to the inside as it is visible from the front when the kit is completed. Also note down the centre of the rear wall there are two guide lines to help you get the centre wall vertical. Do a dry assembly first to check you have the parts correctly orientated, then separate them and apply glue. By assembling all the 3 parts at once it is easier to get all the parts perpendicular to each other, however if you prefer, assemble the centre wall to the floor using a right angle or another part from the kit  to get it vertical, You can then attach the rear wall.


Next glue on the middle floor, this is a plain piece with no etching. Three lugs on the rear edge clip into the rear wall. Check at this stage everything is square as this makes assembly of the later parts much easier.

Now we glue on the pit front. Note there is surface detail on this part above the front opening and this needs to face outwards. Again do a dry assembly first to see where you need to apply glue and then assemble it to the main model. Notice that the lugs on this part are long and protrude through the face of the front wall. This is correct. Just ensure the front face is pushed back and presses tightly against the front upright and is fully engaged with the floor. Take care here not to push too hard on the end sections as these are fragile.

The end pieces go on next. These are handed left and right, so make sure the etched brick detail goes on the outside. Notice once more the lug on the lower front edge protrudes slightly through the front wall. This is correct. In addition whilst the glue is drying check the top corners at the rear align with the rear wall to form a perfect corner. If you are using a slow drying glue, a couple of lengths of tape at the top can help keep them in place.

Your model should now look something like the image below. Place it aside and allow it to dry.

We now turn our attention to the upper seating assembly. Take out the seating base as shown and find a seat support (There are several in the kit). Also find another part which has a square corner as you can use this to glue the two parts at right angles.

Now we glue in a rear cross brace. Once more there are several in the kit and any will do. Notice that the bottom lug is offset slightly and this ensures it fits the correct way.

In a similar way add on another seat support and another cross brace and one final seat support until the model looks as shown.

We now need to find a stair support and glue it in place. Do a dry assembly first as you need to look where to apply glue on the seat support. Push it firmly home in to the slot and press it against the seat support until it dries.

Add on another stair support as shown. Use another part in the kit which has a right angled corner as a guide so you can glue this perfectly vertical.

We now add on the first two steps. These need to be cut from the sprue with a sharp blade.. Glue the lower two steps first.

Add on the next two steps.

And then the last two. Push these together and use the upright edges to align them.

Next comes another seat support. Again do a dry assembly first to determine where to apply glue.

In a similar manner to the first end, continue to build the seat support and cross braces until you have the following assembly.

Continue by adding on the seat decking. It is best if you place the narrow etched plank to the front as it is then hidden by the seat back. Glue these on ensuring the are pushed back in to the corners and the ends are flush.

Now add on the seat base. Note the bases and backs are the same, so choose any in the kit. Glue it on enduring it is pushed into the corner.

Now add on a seat back.

Carry on adding a seat base and then a back until you have finished all the seats.

Once this assembly is dry it can be attached to the main model. Do a dry assembly first. It needs to be pushed forwards as far as possible and mounted centrally between the pit end walls. There is a small gap either end, so when you are gluing it in, try to position it  with an even gap.
 
Now add on the rear outer wall. Use the door openings and edges of the part to help align it exactly.

Now lie the model flat on the build surface and glue on the first stair support. Use the etched detail to position it exactly on the rear wall. There are two identical supports in the kit, use either.

The next piece to attach is the upper stair floor. Notice that this has an offset notch. make sure you clue this in the correct way. Use another square part in the kit to make sure the part is upright.

Follow this piece with the upright wall. Once again glue this vertical.

Rotate the model on the bench as shown and attach the first stair upright. Both the uprights and stair treads are the same part, cut them off the sprue first making sure the cut end is free from burrs. Once again use a square edge to get this aligned correctly.

The next part requires care. Glue on one of the lower stair uprights. We need to ensure it is square in both directions. Take another square part from the kit. Apply glue to the parts and place them together. Hold the part and check it both ways to ensure it is perfectly upright. The parts are quite accurate so it should be easy to do.

Now attach the second stair support. Align the part where shown. We also need to make sure the sides are parallel. This can be done by eye. It is possible even with super glue to adjust this before fully cured, so it is a good idea to flip the model upright and check that both lower ends sit on the build surface. You can also use a right angle to check that it is square to the workbench.




With the model as shown above, glue on the other stair uprights. It is easier to start at the top and work down.

Complete the stairs by adding on all the horizontal stair treads. Push these down and into the wall. It is handy here to have a small modeling knife or stick so you can push at the back corner near the wall to ensure each is fully home.

Cap off the stairs with the outer wall. The lower edge should align perfectly with the stair support and form a neat square with the upper stair wall. This completes the stairs.

Turn the model around and glue on the front lower slab.

Follow this by attaching the two top cappings.

Glue on the top lip as shown. Ensure the ends are flush with the main body.

The next part is a little tricky and it helps to have an extra pair of hands, but alternatively this can be achieved with some masking tape on either ends of the part to hold the corners in place whilst the part dries. . We now need to glue on the front upper piece. Ensure the etched detail goes to the inside and the ends are flush.

Ensure the above part has fully cured and remove any tape you used to hold the assembly together. We now need to insert the other roof supports. It is important here to do a dry assembly as sometimes glue residue can be in the base of the rear slots. Check it all goes together first and that it pushed down fully into the slot. Remove the part, apply glue then reassemble. The vertical etched lines enable the parts to be positioned correctly. Once more a small strip of masking tape can be useful at the front to make sure the parts are held together whilst the glue dries.

The final part of the kit is the roof. Apply glue to the top parts and press it home. The etched detail is on the outside and check that the side and rear edges are flush with the vertical walls.

Congratulations you have finished the two tier pit building. We designed the building to go between our other pit modules, but it can be used as a stand alone building and we added etched detail on the end so you can do this. If you are going to use the building as an end module we do recommend that you take the time to add a bit of filler to the small gap in the end wall as shown before painting the kit.

We hoped you enjoyed building the model and we would really like to see some photos of your work so we can add them to our gallery.