Information on the Reims Gueux Marshal Outpost #004 and how to assemble it
Reims Gueux Marshal Outpost building is a scale reproduction of the
at the Reims Gueux circuit in France. These buildings were positioned
at strategic points and were raised to allow the marshals to get
a clear view of any potential problem on the circuit. Our research
shows that these huts had a door fitted and many were mounted on a
concrete plinth. As the buildings are quite small out kit contains two
identical buildings which you can position on your track. The roof of
the remaining hut at the actual track seems to be a simple corrugated affair,
however we expect this is temporary. We have added a roof and decorated
it in a similar fashion.
The 1/32 model is 100mm Wide x 100mm Deep x 132mm High
The 1/43 model is 75mm Wide x 75mm Deep x 99mm High
is one of these buildings still remaining which has been moved closer
to the main pit area. There is a small group of enthusiasts who spend
their time maintaining the buildings. You can also see the original
building on Google maps. Amis du Circuit de Gueux
Reims Gueux Marshal Hut on Google Maps
marshal huts are of wood construction and each was labeled with its
own number "Poste No1", "Poste No2" etc. Also marked above the front
window were words such as "Calvaire". Our research shows that this word
means "Crucifix" and we believe was the local name for one of the
turns on the circuit near the village of Gueux. The
doesn't have stairs, but old photographs show they were fitted and also
had hand rails either side. We have added these to out kit.
How to assemble the Marshals Hut #004
marshal hut is fairly straightforward to build, but care should be
taken to get the legs square. The 1/43 kit can be quite delicate, so we
would recommend you take care and fit the lower base as soon as you can
during construction. Read through the
instructions fully before you begin your build and you won't go
far wrong. As with all our kits we recommend at each stage you dry
assemble the part before you glue it, particularly if you use the
recommended super glue. This is great to use, but does cure quite
quickly and is unforgiving if you glue something incorrectly!
We have chosen to make the
model double skinned as this makes the building more robust.. Assemble the inner structure first, then add the outer shell.
let us begin. Get
following 4 parts from the kit and do a dry assembly. Note these are
the inner walls, so have no etched detail on them. The door is at the
rear and the front wall has a window with two uprights.The left and
right walls are identical and the roof slopes down to the back of the
get out the floor and examine it carefully. You will note there is
etching on this part around the edges. This goes outward and is used
when we position the legs later. The floor is square. so can be
orientated any way, however the centre leg rectangular cutout can point
to either front leg. Examine the photo of the real building and decide
how it goes. Either way if it points to the other leg no one will really notice!
these pieces together and ensure the corners are fully engaged. This is best done with the model upside down. If you
are using a slow drying glue, a couple of elastic bands around the 4
walls helps a lot.
We next glue on the outer skin. Start with the rear wall. This is
glued onto the inner wall, making sure the vertical edges are flush as
shown. Push it down onto the lower lip. It is slightly shorter than the
inner wall to allow for the sloping roof so don't worry if the top edge is not aligned.
we glue in the door from the inside. Due to the chamfers on the upper
corners it can only go in one way. Make sure the etched detail is on
the outside. The lip on the top edge is small, so it is best to apply
glue only down the vertical edges. Use glue sparingly as it has a tendency to get squeezed out of the door jams.
now add in the centre roof support. You can recognize this one as it is
notched at either end and is taller than the other two. Do a trial fit
in the two cutouts. Do a trial fit to ensure it goes fully home and then glue this in.
can now glue on the two side walls. The roof cross brace helps us here
to align the walls correctly. Have a look around the window after you
have glued it as some glue sometimes seeps out. Wipe this away before
it dries. The top sloping edge should be flush with the inner wall.
front wall is last of all and slots in as shown. It is slightly taller
than the inner wall to accommodate the sloping roof, but push it down
onto the lower lip to get it in the correct place. Notice in the image
below a small amount of glue has seeped out of the lower window ledge.
Wipe this away if it occurs using a cloth or a small piece of folded
paper. If you don't do this it makes the window sills more difficult to
the legs square is a little tricky, so use a right angle or another
piece of the kit to help. The front two are first and there is an
etched line to help align the rear internal edge. It is important to
get these perpendicular to the base, so use a right angle, another
square edge or one of the side pieces from the kit. Then glue on the rear legs in a similar
glue on the side pieces. You now have the assembly as shown below.
There is a base plate in the kit and it is sometimes handy to
hold this above the legs to ensure you have them all positioned
squarely. We have found that the parts of the kit are quite accurate,
so you should have no problems achieving this.
The quirky fifth leg goes on last! Again there are guide etchings to help you
we glue it in correctly. Check that it is perpendicular to the base using a square edge and use the base plate as a guide.
the model on its legs. With the 1/43 kit it may be wise to glue on the
base now to give them support (see later images), but either way we now
need to attach the front and rear roof supports. They are both
identical. You need to get these correct and so have the main roof part
handy to help you align them. You will notice on the front and rear
faces there is an additional line at the top (in addition to the
planking detail) and you can use this to get the height of each part as
it aligns perfectly with the lower edge of each plank. Also on
the roof supports there are two vertical lines on the back of each and
these align with the
corner of the building. Using these guides it is not too difficult to
get them positioned.
now attach the roof. In the image below we glued it with the lines
across the building, but if you want to simulate corrugated roofing as
on the actual building, these would be better placed front to back!
There are no guides to help you here, so to position the roof it is
best to turn the model upside down and use a ruler to centralize the
main assembly over the roof. Get it symmetrical left to right and front
to back. Once happy a few pencil marks on the
roof will enable you to lift the model, apply glue and press it
Now we turn our attention to the stairs. Get out the stair hand rails
and the stair supports. The handles are handed left and right, but the
notched supports are the same. Glue them together using the etched marks as a
guide. On the 1/43 kit, the parts have a small notch that sticks out
to help you, but with the 1/32 kit, just check carefully that they fit
exactly along all the lines and the cut edges. There is only one
the stair hand rails to the main model. Again a right angled piece is
handy here to ensure they are perfectly square to the base. Before the
part dries, flip it onto its legs and check that the lower edge of the hand rail touches
the build surface. One handy trick here is to have previously cut a
stair tread from the sprue and use it as a spacer across both the parts to
check everything is correct. Again the cut holes tend to be a nice fit, so this goes together nicely.
now glue in the stair treads. There are 7 of them, but we have given
you a few more in the kit. Start at the top as this gives you better
hand access. Use just a small drop of glue here to avoid making a mess.
The stairs are actually quite rigid when completed, so excessive glue is not necessary.
Our last detail is to add in the window sills. There are three of them
The side two are identical and have one notch in them, the front sill
has two notches. apply glue sparingly and push them home into the
The next part is optional, however many of the original buildings were
mounted on a concrete plinth, so adding a base for the legs is actually
quite authentic. This is handy as the legs on this kit are vulnerable
to damage, particularly with the smaller 1/43 kit. Apply a couple of
drops of glue to each leg and push the model home. Be warned here it is
quite easy to glue the model to the build surface, particularly if you
are using super glue! A piece of paper or plastic under the model can
save you embarrassment later as you try to lever it off the best dining table!
you do paint and complete the model further, please email us a photo.
We are currently completing a gallery and we will be adding the best
models to it.
Congratulations, your model is complete. Of course the second model of the pair is waiting for you!
Please feel free to contact us with suggestions for new buildings and improvements to our current models.