Information on the Reims Gueux Marshal Outpost #004 and how to assemble it

The Reims Gueux Marshal Outpost building is a scale reproduction of the building at the Reims Gueux circuit in France. These buildings were positioned at strategic points and were raised to allow the marshals to get a clear view of any potential problem on the circuit. Our research shows that these huts had a door fitted and many were mounted on a concrete plinth. As the buildings are quite small out kit contains two identical buildings which you can position on your track. The roof of the remaining hut at the actual track seems to be a simple corrugated affair, however we expect this is temporary. We have added a roof and decorated it in a similar fashion.

The 1/32 model is 100mm Wide x 100mm Deep x 132mm High

The 1/43 model is 75mm Wide x 75mm Deep x 99mm High

There is one of these buildings still remaining which has been moved closer to the main pit area. There is a small group of enthusiasts who spend their time maintaining the buildings. You can also see the original building on Google maps.

Amis du Circuit de Gueux

Reims Gueux Marshal Hut on Google Maps

The marshal huts are of wood construction and each was labeled with its own number "Poste No1", "Poste No2" etc. Also marked above the front window were words such as "Calvaire". Our research shows that this word means "Crucifix" and we believe was the local name for one of the turns on the circuit near the village of Gueux. The surviving building doesn't have stairs, but old photographs show they were fitted and also had hand rails either side. We have added these to out kit.

How to assemble the Marshals Hut #004

The marshal hut is fairly straightforward to build, but care should be taken to get the legs square. The 1/43 kit can be quite delicate, so we would recommend you take care and fit the lower base as soon as you can during construction. Read through the instructions fully before you begin your build and you won't go far wrong. As with all our kits we recommend at each stage you dry assemble the part before you glue it, particularly if you use the recommended super glue. This is great to use, but does cure quite quickly and is unforgiving if you glue something incorrectly!

We have chosen to make the model double skinned as this makes the building more robust.. Assemble the inner structure first, then add the outer shell.

Now let us begin. Get out the following 4 parts from the kit and do a dry assembly. Note these are the inner walls, so have no etched detail on them. The door is at the rear and the front wall has a window with two uprights.The left and right walls are identical and the roof slopes down to the back of the building.


Now get out the floor and examine it carefully. You will note there is etching on this part around the edges. This goes outward and is used when we position the legs later. The floor is square. so can be orientated any way, however the centre leg rectangular cutout can point to either front leg. Examine the photo of the real building and decide how it goes. Either way if it points to the other leg no one will really notice!



Glue these pieces together and ensure the corners are fully engaged.  This is best done with the model upside down. If you are using a slow drying glue, a couple of elastic bands around the 4 walls helps a lot.

We next  glue on the outer skin. Start with the rear wall. This is glued onto the inner wall, making sure the vertical edges are flush as shown. Push it down onto the lower lip. It is slightly shorter than the inner wall to allow for the sloping roof so don't worry if the top edge is not aligned.


Now we glue in the door from the inside. Due to the chamfers on the upper corners it can only go in one way. Make sure the etched detail is on the outside. The lip on the top edge is small, so it is best to apply glue only down the vertical edges. Use glue sparingly as it has a tendency to get squeezed out of the door jams.



We now add in the centre roof support. You can recognize this one as it is notched at either end and is taller than the other two. Do a trial fit in the two cutouts. Do a trial fit to ensure it goes fully home and then glue this in.



We can now glue on the two side walls. The roof cross brace helps us here to align the walls correctly. Have a look around the window after you have glued it as some glue sometimes seeps out. Wipe this away before it dries. The top sloping edge should be flush with the inner wall.



The front wall is last of all and slots in as shown. It is slightly taller than the inner wall to accommodate the sloping roof, but push it down onto the lower lip to get it in the correct place. Notice in the image below a small amount of glue has seeped out of the lower window ledge. Wipe this away if it occurs using a cloth or a small piece of folded paper. If you don't do this it makes the window sills more difficult to assemble later.


Getting the legs square is a little tricky, so use a right angle or another piece of the kit to help. The front two are first and there is an etched line to help align the rear internal edge. It is important to get these perpendicular to the base, so use a right angle, another square edge or one of the side pieces from the kit. Then glue on the rear legs in a similar way.


Next glue on the side pieces. You now have the assembly as shown below. There is a base plate in the kit and it is sometimes handy to hold this above the legs to ensure you have them all positioned squarely. We have found that the parts of the kit are quite accurate, so you should have no problems achieving this.


The quirky fifth leg goes on last! Again there are guide etchings to help you we glue it in correctly. Check that it is perpendicular to the base using a square edge and use the base plate as a guide.


Stand the model on its legs. With the 1/43 kit it may be wise to glue on the base now to give them support (see later images), but either way we now need to attach the front and rear roof supports. They are both identical. You need to get these correct and so have the main roof part handy to help you align them. You will notice on the front and rear faces there is an additional line at the top (in addition to the planking detail) and you can use this to get the height of each part as it aligns perfectly with the lower edge of each plank. Also on the roof supports there are two vertical lines on the back of each and these align with the corner of the building. Using these guides it is not too difficult to get them positioned.


We now attach the roof. In the image below we glued it with the lines across the building, but if you want to simulate corrugated roofing as on the actual building, these would be better placed front to back! There are no guides to help you here, so to position the roof it is best to turn the model upside down and use a ruler to centralize the main assembly over the roof. Get it symmetrical left to right and front to back. Once happy a few pencil marks on the roof will enable you to lift the model, apply glue and press it back home.


Now we turn our attention to the stairs. Get out the stair hand rails and the stair supports. The handles are handed left and right, but the notched supports are the same. Glue them together using the etched marks as a guide. On the 1/43 kit, the parts have a small notch that sticks out to help you, but with the 1/32 kit, just check carefully that they fit exactly along all the lines and the cut edges. There is only one correct way.



Glue the stair hand rails to the main model. Again a right angled piece is handy here to ensure they are perfectly square to the base. Before the part dries, flip it onto its legs and check that the lower edge of the hand rail touches the build surface. One handy trick here is to have previously cut a stair tread from the sprue and use it as a spacer across both the parts to check everything is correct. Again the cut holes tend to be a nice fit, so this goes together nicely.



We now glue in the stair treads. There are 7 of them, but we have given you a few more in the kit. Start at the top as this gives you better hand access. Use just a small drop of glue here to avoid making a mess. The stairs are actually quite rigid when completed, so excessive glue is not necessary.


Our last detail is to add in the window sills. There are three of them The side two are identical and have one notch in them, the front sill has two notches. apply glue sparingly and push them home into the window recess.




The next part is optional, however many of the original buildings were mounted on a concrete plinth, so adding a base for the legs is actually quite authentic. This is handy as the legs on this kit are vulnerable to damage, particularly with the smaller 1/43 kit. Apply a couple of drops of glue to each leg and push the model home. Be warned here it is quite easy to glue the model to the build surface, particularly if you are using super glue! A piece of paper or plastic under the model can save you embarrassment later as you try to lever it off the best dining table!



Congratulations, your model is complete. Of course the second model of the pair is waiting for you!







If you do paint and complete the model further, please email us a photo. We are currently completing a gallery and we will be adding the best models to it.

Please feel free to contact us with suggestions for new buildings and improvements to our current models.