Race Stewards Hut
The Race Stewards hut is an ideal first building for any track. The upper platform gives a panoramic view of all the action, whilst a small storage area below provides plenty of room for all the stewards paraphernalia! On the front is a chalk board to mark up the race results and two alternative advertising signs are provided in the 1/32 kit which can be mounted to the roof. A single sign is provided in the 1/43 kit. The wood is finely etched with brickwork and other details.
The 1/32 model is 140mm Wide x 140mm Deep x 208mm High
The 1/43 model is 104mm Wide x 104mm Deep x 154mm High
How to assemble the Race Stewards Hut #001
The Race Stewards hut is very easy to assemble. Read through the instructions fully before you begin construction. It is possible to completely assemble the main building sections without any glue to get a feel of how it goes together before you proceed further.
We have found that the parts are a very accurate fit and need next to no glue to hold together. We recommend "Super Glue". Get the "Gel Type" if you can as this gives you much more control. Just a few drops here and there is sufficient to hold everything in place. If you want the building to be extra strong use "No more nails" or PVA wood adhesive along the inner corners once the model is assembled. This isn't really necessary, but if you have to pack your track away regularly this can be a good idea.
You can assemble the building in about 1/2 hour, but for best results we recommend you take your time and paint the model as you go.
The building is quite detailed already, but of course feel free to add in more. If you choose to paint the model, do most of the parts before you assemble them. To preserve the etched detail we have found that acrylic paints work very well. There are a couple of methods. The first is to lightly brush paint onto the surface so the dark etching is preserved. Alternatively you can paint or spray the whole surface, and then later come back with a darker wash. Paint or dab this on and then rub off the excess. This leaves dark paint residue in the grooves.
Now to begin. First off, get out the above parts from the kit. These are the lower walls. Do a dry assembly first to orientate yourself. The large door is at the rear, the leader board is at the the front. The stairs are on the left wall. All the lugs point upwards.
Now assemble and glue the four walls to the middle floor. Note the extended platform on the floor is above the stair side. A couple of elastic bands wrapped around the bottom section can help hold it all together whilst it is gluing, however if you are using drops of super glue, you can hold it whilst the glue goes off as this takes only a matter of a few seconds.
We now need to assemble the upper section. Get out the parts as shown below. Note two of the parts are marked with a small "F" and "B" on the top lug. This denotes the front and rear walls. Also note there is window detail on the parts. These all face outwards.
It is important to glue in the door first before assembling the upper sections. There are guide lines around the door to assist you in lining it up correctly. Ensure the lower door edge is level with the base of the wall otherwise the upper sections will not sit down flush onto the floor.
Below are the upper sides dry assembled ready for positioning on the main model.
Assemble these to the main model. You can use the upper roof to help align them. Again two elastic bands can help hold it all together whilst drying.
Now fit the garage door. You have options here. Glue the door as shown, or raise it up so its half open. You can even cut off the top section and glue it so its completely raised. There is a capping piece over the top of the door which we will fit later. If you are going to have the door fully raised. Take this into account when positioning how you want the door to look as it partially covers the aperture.
We can now fit on the roof. Again you have options. You can leave it loose so you have access to the interior or glue it in place. Note there are two extra location holes. An advertising board goes in these and this can point in any direction. In the image below it will be above the stairs, but the usual location is towards the front (Above the leader board on the lower wall).
The advertising sign goes on next. We have included a plain sign so you can add your own banner, but you really need to advertise Magnetic Racing don't you! (This is not included in the 1/43 kit) With that in mind we have added an extra one for you! We suggest you don't glue this home just yet but do it last of all. This stops it getting damaged and also gives you more time to make the correct decision on which one you want to use...(Hint)..It's the Magnetic Racing one isn't it?!
The stairs are the most difficult part of the build, but if you follow the assembly sequence below it is fairly straightforward. First get out the following two parts shown in the image and glue them together. Align the steps with the etched detail on the stair rail. Ensure the lower corners are flush. Skip a couple of images down to see how it is going to fit on the upper platform and do a dry run first before gluing. Both stair sides are identical. One glues to the hand rail and one glues to the wall.
Whilst the stair rail is drying, glue the upper hand rail in place. Again the position is etched at the side of the door jam, glue it along the edge of the upper platform as shown
Glue the stair rails as shown. The first glues to the wall, its position is marked on the bricks The model is accurate, so fit the outer rail along the edge of the upper platform. Make sure the lower ends of each side touch the floor.
Next cut the steps from the sprue. We have supplied a few extra pieces in case cut incorrectly.
Begin to glue the steps in place. It is best to start at the top as this gives your hands room to get between the stair sides as you progress downwards. Just a couple of drops of glue is sufficient. The stairs appear flimsy, but the finished assembly is actually very strong..
The image below shows the completed stairs. Allow this to fully cure before continuing.
We now add on the corner cappings. Begin at the front. Note that the visible join of the corner cappings is at the sides of the building. Follow the guide lines on the edges of the brickwork to get them in the correct place. The upper and lower cappings are identical. There are 17 in the kit. The 17th one is used over the top of the the garage door. Note there is also a narrower and longer strip. This is used at the lower edge of the leader board as shown. It gives the Race Steward somewhere to place his chalk!
We now add the window frames. Again the correct position is marked on the walls. Use very little glue if possible so it doesn't show. If some does ooze out, fold a small piece of scrap paper and use this to scrape away the excess before it dries.
As stated earlier, the 17th corner capping is used over the rear door
Now fix on the advertising sign. Glue the rear gussets in place. We have now added etchings on the roof to help you position them.
The model is now complete. Here is what you should have.
If you haven't painted the model, we would encourage you to do so as its a blank canvas just waiting for you. When designing the model we envisaged that the lower half was brick and the upper half constructed of wood covered with tar paper or other cladding material, but the choice is up to you. Here are a few suggestions to get you going.
a) Add in a drain pipe at the corner. (Wooden barbecue skewers)
b) We prefer not to add in windows as we find them too reflective on small models, but you can use overhead projector film or other acetate sheet if you prefer your building with glass.
c) The leader board could do with some famous names on it!
d) That roof looks a bit leaky. Perhaps some roofing felt (fashioned from fine emery paper) would make it water tight.
If you do paint and complete the model further, please email us a photo. We are currently completing a gallery and we will be adding the best models to it.
Please feel free to contact us with suggestions for new buildings and improvements to our current models.